Boston Globe - Hit of the Week

PAD THAI
We have a long standing fantasy of a great concept restaurant: Noodles of the World.  The menu would highlight everything from Chinese egg noodles to Japanese buckwheat noodles to short, stocky, tubular Italian ziti.

Until our fantasy restaurant opens, we will have to content ourselves with locating noodles in their normal, designated channels.  At least here we have many venues for Pad Thai, the signature Thai entree of sautéed rice noodles (Sen Lek), bean sprout, eggs, fish sauce (Num Pla), dried or fresh shrimp, peanuts, chilies, garlic and a little fresh coriander.

While we've never met a Pad Thai we haven't like, the range among local Thai restaurants in considerable.  Sometimes the dish is a plate of shiny noodles with a sprinkling of peanuts.  Other times, the platter is show-stopping, with a brilliant array of veggie garnishes and a lovingly prepared Pad Thai.

Our Pad Thai preference is for noodles that aren't overly oily, but with a pronounced peanut flavor, including a sprinkling of chopped nuts for texture.  The scallions must be fresh and well-cut -- not raggedy -- and the bean sprouts better be fresh, not discolored at the ends.

All things being equal, we are swayed, even seduced, by the presence of a few steamed or stir-fried vegetables.  They indicate a general reverence, attract the diner's eyes and taste wonderful in combination with slick, rich Pad Thai.

Our favorite:
Thai Dish, 259 Newbury St. (formerly King & I), 437-9611

They present a sumptuous, beautifully garnished Pad Thai, rushing the hot flavorful dish directly from wok to diner.